https://photos.app.goo.gl/n29hn5Qk71TAiU3n6

• dash knobs ICK! (Moss)

• Art Parsell

• screw caps (plastic)

• choke cable

Hello Heinrich,

Thanks for reaching out. I purchased a padded console cover (the padding is part of the unit) in 2017 from Victoria British. The VB part number was 16-982. I paid $154.95 at the time. It resembled the original perfectly. As noted below, it was challenging ton install. I didn't take any in process pictures as the glue was a mess to work with. Here are some before and after pics I did take though if at all helpful: [url=https://photos.app.goo.gl/n29hn5Qk71TAiU3n6][color=#0033FF]https://photos.app.goo.gl/n29hn5Qk71TAiU3n6[/color][/url]

As you mentioned, Victoria British is no longer in business (bought out by Moss). Moss has the covers listed for $299.99, the Roadster Factory is $319.95, and Rimmer Brothers for $216.17. [US Dollar Prices] British Parts Northwest apparently does not stock them. 

The covers differ by year depending on if you have the light switch below the radio opening or not so be careful to order the right ones (Rimmer is particularly confusing).

Rimmer is the cheapest. I am sure they are all the same cover to be honest. In my opinion, this is not something that can be done well without the purchased molded cover although you are welcome to try. I have seen pics of people just spray painting the metal but I prefer the padded look.

As an FYI, we have a fabric store here in the US called [b][i]Joann Fabric[/i][/b]s that sells vinyl that is a near perfect match for the early stag grain on the TR6. I used that to make my own kidney panels for alongside the center console. I have templates for them if you are interested.

Allan

[quote=w147ik]

In reply to https://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,1556968,1557246#msg-1557246

[quote=AllanJ71MGB]

Hi Paul,

I just did this with a cover I got from VB. It was probably one of the frustrating things I've done lately. In fact, I had to do it twice.

First, my old cover was in bad shape and came off easily. I then scraped and wire wheeled the remaining bits off. I wanted to mount a modern radio into the car so I took it to a local welder who made the taller and skinnier opening less so. I then cut it down to the correct dimensions for the new radio.  I then prepped the frame for the glue as per instructions.

****** Just a note before I start, don't cut or trim ANY of the excess plastic yet

****** Also, don't get glue on the cover or the frame where you are not working

I used a [url=http://a.co/43GNkwR]spray glue[/url] I picked up from Amazon. I followed the directions and I had a lot of trouble bonding. The glue stuck to the frame great but not the cover. I ended up having to take the frame to a paint shop in Trenton, NJ to have the adhesive removed. He used an acid bath.

I reprepped the frame and also lightly wiped the interior of the cover with acetone.

I then went to work again. This time, I did the gluing in sections starting at the top around the radio face only and the shifter area top, front face, and sides. Leave the shifter hole piece intact for the moment (I cut this out last). I cut the radio hole to match my radio cut out. Don't glue the sides or the back yet. Just the face of the radio frame and the top, front face, and sides of the shifter.

I used a lot of spring clamps, mini C clamps, and big paper binder clips with small wood (shims from Home Depot) under them to spread the clamp force out while it dried. I let it setup thoroughly overnight. This is the bond that needs to totally secure before doing the rest of the covering.

I then did face of the legs. When you do this it is a good idea to leave some of the clamps from the previous step on.

Then I worked on the sides in sections (running out of clamping devices)..

Then the wrap around in sections starting with the sides and face of the shifter (don't do the hole yet). This is the part where you need to trim carefully with a really sharp exacto knife or razor blade. Don't overcut and think about how it will look once installed. I usually cut at 45 degrees to the angle (or straight down in the case of the shifter front/side faces. I did my best to NOT cut it super close to the metal frame. Leaving just a little tiny excess created a really finished look.

Then I did the wrap around on the legs and feet (the feet were really tough).

The shifter hole I did last. I cut it into pie wedges, about 15-20. Be really careful NOT to cut all the from the center to the metal edge. I left about 3/16 of the cut to go. The reason why is the when you wrap the material around, down and to the back of the frame you want a nice clean look without slice marks around the shifter boot. I had to use lots of glue and clamps here and some of the wedges took several tries.

Again, go in sections, go slow, keep the glue to where you are working. Sorry I didn't take any in-progress pics!

Hope this helps!

-Allan

[/quote]

rs 

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